The Horizon Is On Fire....Totally.

Working below sea level...!

And I mean that.

Pipe is not only showing her teeth as one of the previous posts said, but her gums and very gnarly and deep throat also...........and I DO have the proof !

I have seen some hardass shit go down here over my trips, but this one (and particularly Saturday and today Monday) are hands down "off the hook" so to speak. The place has lit up like a freeking christmas tree over those two days and I feel 100% honoured to have witnessed it.

Where do I start........... I suppose by admitting that I am a few days behind in blogging here.

You have to understand, that when it gets as good as this, it's hard not to become too feral....cooking, eating, washing, laundry, blogging, emails etc...etc all come second to downloading and backing up if there is time. It's hard to get everything done at night to be prepped up for the next day, the time is just not there to do it all, so the blog suffers when the swell is up, and just quietly..............I bloody well love that. Suffer a whole lot more I say.

This entry you are reading now by rights should be totally dedicated to Saturday if I can control myself ( but.....I'm typing it on Monday night, 8.30pm after witnessing and documenting Garrett MacNamara get the ride of his life mid morning here from second reef Pipe into just before the beach where he got nailed by the beast that is Pipe) as Saturday was such a mental day in its own right. The Volcom Pipe Pro started off in the morning in good solid surf. They pulled the pin on it mid morning as the general consensus was that it was getting too dangerous ?????? don't know about that.

Admittedly, it was getting pretty screwed up and evil around then, but about lunch time the magic started to materialise and when it did, by god, was it primo or what.

Before I left Australia as you know, I sent a lot of people in my address book a link to this blog. One of them was Doug from San Diego, whom Wendy, Samara and I met while we where in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico in '07 .

Well it turns out Doug has now moved to Oahu HI, and when he got my email, replied back that we should hook up while I was here. We organised it as good as we could via email and text to meet at "Pipe" on the Saturday as the Volcom comp was on and he was also coming across to the North Shore to have a surf anyway .

I had been back at the house for lunch and downloading and dumping CF cards and video hard drives after the mornings shooting getting ready for hopefully a good afternoon.

I figured Doug would turn up at the beach park so started wandering down the Ke Nui bike path towards there at the designated time. I came to the walkway between the two Volcom houses and thought I would go and have a look as the action would be well viewed from there.

I'm standing there looking at Pipe with my back towards the walkway for about 3 minutes thinking I had a bit of time up my sleeve when I get a tap on the shoulder....I turn around and it's Doug and Kristen. Doug had spotted me walking into the walkway, while parking up the road a bit.

After the initial greetings we just hung there looking at the screwed up surf for about half an hour, then realised it was starting to build and look really clean, groomed and offshore. We were still standing between the Volcom houses but decided to head down to the beach and just chilled taking it all in and it kept getting better. I couldn't help myself, and up and bolted back to the house to get the cameras, came back and set up beside Doug and Kristen and just sat there for the rest of the afternoon getting blown away by perfect Pipeline and documenting it all...it truly was something to see. It was so close to dark when we walked up off the beach it didn't matter, it was a full day. Every man, tourist and his dog was down there checking out the action.

I think I've behaved myself quite well here not talking about today, so I will sign out for now and try and stay awake long enough to post a couple of pics with this entry and hopefully post again tomorrow night on that very interesting subject.

A lot of people on the beach lost a lot of valuable stuff today.....phones, cameras wallets, handbags etc, and I was so, so close to being one of them, but more of that tomorrow (if tomorrow's not good at the beach, which it bloody well will be goddam it. I can't take much more.

Cheers.......

It's 11pm and the roosters are crowing... what's that all about, I'm just thinking about going to bed !!!!!

Video link from Volcom Pro Tuesday 31st Jan ....HI time. http://youtu.be/si32wAvEqis